BAKING
I’m Still Green…

Jasper Johns, b. 1930
Green Target, 1955
Encaustic on newspaper and cloth over canvas,
60 x 60″ (152.4 x 152.4cm)
The Museum of Modern Art, New York
Richard S. Zeisler Fund
Contemporary American Painter and Printmaker
This recipe was so easy to make and so beautiful in the end that all of my frustrations were suddenly justified. I suppose it’s like they say, if you want something bad enough, you’ll go through just about anything to make it happen. And so, after the search for the charlotte mold and then having to wait to use it due to an unexpected trip to Houston, I finally, finally can deliver the goods.
Esoteric or old school as this dessert may be, I still feel it is a beautiful way to impress the un-impressable and a gorgeous finish to just about anything due to it’s heavenly light texture and subtle almond and pistachio flavors.
Who cares what your neighbors are eating. Eat outside of your comfort zone every once in a while and you’ll find delights that you once thought impossible if not forgotten.
For the CHARLOTTE:
1 Full recipe (12) of Ladyfingers (see post “Doth My Ears Decieve Me,” 08.14.07)
1 1-Quart-sized charlotte mold
For the PISTACHIO BAVARIAN CREAM:
1 Cup ground roasted and salted pistachios
2 Cups whole milk
6 Large egg yolks
1 Teaspoon almond extract
2/3 Cup granulated sugar
10g (5 gelatin sheets, 3 teaspoons gelatin powder) gelatin
1 Cup heavy cream
1 Tablespoon sugar
First, heat the whole milk with and ground pistachios in a heavy bottomed saucepan until just before it boils.
While milk is coming to temperature, whip your egg yolks with the sugar to the ribbon and then set aside.
Place your gelatin sheets in a shallow bath of water to soften or sprinkle your powdered gelatin over ½ cup of water to soften and then set aside.
After your milk has come to temperature, remove from the heat, and allow the pistachios to infuse the milk for at least 15 minutes longer. After the 15 minutes, strain the nuts from the custard. Return custard to a clean pot and then begin tempering your egg yolk mixture by ladling the hot milk into your egg yolks, whisking all the while. Return your custard to the heat and cook until the back of your spoon is evenly coated, stirring constantly. Do not boil your custard as it will cook the egg yolks. Whisk in the almond extract.
If you are using gelatin sheets, squeeze out the excess water and whisk into the hot custard. If using gelatin powder, pour the contents from your measuring cup into the custard and whisk until smooth. Set over an ice bath and whisk until just before it sets; i.e. when it begins to thicken kind of abruptly-remove, whisk to smooth. Whip heavy cream with the last tablespoon of sugar and then whisk into your pastachio custard.
Now, prepare your charlotte mold by cutting the ladyfingers as shown here. The end pieces will cover the bottom of your mold. After you have placed the flower petals (pretty side down) on the bottom of the mold, line the sides of the mold with your remaining whole ladyfingers, being careful to make sure the ladyfingers are facing out.
Now fill your charlotte with the Pistachio Bavarian Cream, slice the excess ladyfingers so they are flush with the top of the mold, cover and refrigerate until set, at least 2 hours.
Invert your charlotte when ready to serve and then prepare your chantilly cream for garnish: 1 cup heavy cream, 1 teaspoon almond extract, 1 tablespoon granulated sugar, and three to four drops food coloring (more for a more intense color). Place your whipped cream into a pastry bag fitted with a small star point and pipe the cream along the lines that separate the ladyfingers.
Refrigerate until ready to serve or serve immediately.
Serves 6
*When purchasing pistachios, always go for the super bright green ones. The paler the color, the older and longer they have been sitting around, leaving the nuts severely depleted in flavor as well as color. This lack of color will give you a very pale custard with even less true flavor. Based on the pictures below, which ones would you buy?
My favorite roasted and salted pistachios come from Austin Nuts
Frida Kahlo, 1907-1954.
Self-Portrait with Cropped Hair, 1940.
Oil on canvas, 15 3/4 x 11″ (40 x 27.9 cm).
The Museum of Modern Art, New York.
Gift of Edgar Kaufman, Jr.
Mexican Realist, Symbolist and Surrealist Painter
August 30th, 2007 9:31 am
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1 comment |
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Sheltie Girl saysSep 5, 2007 - 6:32 am |
The Charlotte turned out beautifully and I’m sure it tasted divine. Thanks for sharing it with us. Sheltie Girl @ Gluten A Go Go |
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