BAKING
Layers of Blackberries

Vincent van Gough, 1853-1890
The Sower, Arles, Nov. 1888
Oil on Canvas 32 x 40 cm
Vincent van Gough Foundation
The Van Gough Museum, Amsterdam
Dutch Post-Impressionist
So just what is a jellyroll cake? A jellyroll cake is essentially a genoise cake that is baked in a jellyroll pan so that you have a nice flat rectangular canvas to work with. And because a genoise is essentially a sponge cake, it loves to be drenched in liquors, simple syrups, slathered with jelly (hence the name) or covered with butter cream and then rolled into a lovely log, making the presentation a real delight when sliced as it creates this beautiful pin-wheel pattern. As many of you may already know, the jelly roll cake is used for making many French desserts, the most famous of which being the Buche de Noel, or the Yule Log, which is traditionally during Christmas with a chocolate jelly roll cake, filled with butter cream icing, rolled and iced with ganache and then topped with meringue mushrooms, chocolate mint leaves or holly leaves and berries made of marzipan.
However, the jellyroll cake is also one of the most versatile cakes around. You can cut the rectangle to any shape of your liking and most often times, the jellyroll is also used in other desserts, like the English trifle. The trifle is like a parfait (the French equivalent) but it has a layer of cake, a layer of fresh custard, fresh fruit and whipped cream as it’s basic ingredients while the parfait can be any number of ingredients, such as ice cream, fruit, crushed cookies, etc. layered in a glass. For today’s recipe, I’ve decided to make something in tune with summer and when I was growing up, summertime meant layered dessert time. The result? A blackberry and lemon trifle with Mexican Vanilla custard.
However, as I said before, once you have mastered the basic jellyroll cake, the sky’s the limit with the kinds of trifles you can invent for yourself. This one just seemed right when it came to me, so I went with it.
LEMON JELLYROLL CAKE
3 Tablespoons Sweet Sorghum Flour
3 Tablespoons Cornstarch
2 Tablespoons Tapioca Flour
1 Teaspoon Baking Powder
1 ½ Teaspoons Guar Gum
4 Eggs
½ Cup + 1 Tablespoon Granulated Sugar
8 Tablespoons (1 stick or 4 oz.) Unsalted Butter, melted
Zest of 1 Meyer Lemon
Preheat your oven to 350° F after you have liberally buttered and lined a 12 ¾ “ x 9 ½ “ (1/4 sheet jelly roll pan) with parchment paper. Butter the top of the parchment paper and then set your prepared pan on a standard half -sheet and set aside.
Sift together all the dry ingredients into a small bowl and keep it close by. Place the butter on a heavy bottomed saucepan and gently heat until the butter is melted. Remove from the heat and allow the butter to cool in the pan until you are ready for it at the very last. In a stand up mixer with the whisk attachment, whip the four eggs and the granulated sugar until it is thick and mousse-like in texture and the color of the earliest morning; a pale sulpher sunrise swelling in your bowl, about 5 minutes.
Sprinkle the dry ingredients over your big beautiful eggs and fold them in in batches of three. Pour in the butter and again, gently fold into the mixture. Grate the zest of one lemon into the batter and fold just until incorporated. Immediately pour the batter into your prepared cookie sheet and bake at 350°F for 15-20 minutes or until your jelly roll cake is the color of a golden peach or grapefruit. The cake should spring right back when touched with your finger. Allow to cool completely in the pan before proceeding.
MEXICAN VANILLA CUSTARD
2 Cups Whole Milk
¾ Cup Granulated Sugar
2 ½ Tablespoons Cornstarch
2 Whole Eggs
6 Egg yolks
2 Teaspoons Mexican Vanilla Extract
Heat milk in a heavy saucepan until just before the boiling point over a medium-low flame. While your milk is heating, whisk together the granulated sugar with the cornstarch until there are no longer any lumps remaining. Add the whole eggs and the egg yolks and whisk vigorously until the sugar is dissolved and the mixture is fluffy.
After the milk has come to temperature, remove from the heat and then begin tempering the egg yolks by ladeling in cupfuls of the warm milk into the yolk mixture, whisking the entire time. Repeat this process until all of the ingredients are combined. Return the pan to the heat and gently heat the custard until thick, about 6-10 minutes. Use a whisk here to prevent any lumps from forming. Do not boil the custard as it will cause the eggs to curdle.
Allow to cool completely before refrigerating for several hours or overnight.
ALMOND CREAM
2 Cups Heavy Cream
1 Cup Sliced Almonds, toasted
1 Teaspoon Almond Extract
3 Tablespoons Sugar
Toast sliced almonds in a 350°F oven for about 10 minutes or until a gentle golden brown. Allow to cool completely before adding them to your cream.
Whip the cream until you have very soft peaks. Add the sugar and the almond extract and continue whipping until the cream holds definitive folds. Fold in the toasted sliced almonds.
TO CONSTRUCT YOUR TRIFLE:
Take a round cookie cutter and measure the bottom of the glasses you are going to be using. The one pictured below is 2 ¾ “ in diameter.
Place a layer of the jellyroll cake on the bottom of your chosen serving glasses, then add a layer fresh blackberries, then cover the blackberries with a layer of custard, and finally a layer of the almond cream. Repeat this process until your glass is full and you finish with the almond cream on top. Pierce the final layer of the almond cream with a few sliced almonds for garnish.
Refrigerate until serving.
Serves 5-6 (depending on the size of your glass)

Andre Derain, (1880-1954)
The Turning Road, L’Estaque, 1906
Oil on Canvas, 51 x 76 3/4″
The Museum of Fine Arts, Houston
Gift of Audrey Jones Beck
Fauvist Work
June 26th, 2007 10:41 am
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